Structural is usually a fancy way of indicating epoxy and fiberglass work. It's itchy, messy, sticky, stinky, and absolutely amazing. This can also apply to things like interior woodwork or other static "fixtures" of the boat.
Got blisters? I did. Thousands of dime sized blisters. It will probably take a few seasons to get rid of them all, and this section describes how I did it, and over time, how the method held up. I also needed to fair the keel to hull joint due to minor cracking.
Yes, you heard that right. I cut out the core of my deck and replaced it. The summary is: It's nowhere near as bad as it sounds, but it's pretty disturbing when you start the project.
Cockpit Locker Hatch Core Replacement
As if doing the decks wasn't enough fun, I discovered significant stress cracking on the bottom of the cockpit locker doors, and a very unnerving springy feeling when walking over them. Springy meaning, it felt like you might go through into the locker itself. So, they came home with me for some surgery.
The ports leak, and the "glass" is crazed, fogged, and discolored. in this project, I planned to remove the acrylic from the frames, install and seal new ones, then remount the frames to the cabin top. Unfortunately, it turned into an aesthetic make-over with surface-mounted acrylic replacing the frames altogether. Hopefully no more leaks when I'm done, as this was no small effort.
The port settee is tabbed to the hull. Unfortunately, this tabbing separated from the hull and needs to be ground out, then glassed in. You can just see the crack in this picture to the left of the seacock with the black hose. Similar issues exist on the starboard settee, and the aft cabin bulkhead. This will pretty much require me to turn the boat's interior into a complete white-out of grinding debris. Hope the shop-vac is hungry...
Like most boats of this age, the bow hatch is crazed, foggy, and has a less than ideal gasket. The butyl sealant has begun to fail, and what's worse (although not unusual) is the lack of sealing off the exposed deck core. Oh yes, and the supports are missing, so it only stays up when I prop a board in it. In this project I will replace the original hatch with a new one and properly seal off the decking.
Making a New Transducer Fairing Block
The original transducer fairing block was unsealed wood, and very rotten. It was not seaworthy my any stretch of imagination. In this project I create a new fairing block out of fiberglass sheet material and mount it on the hull.